Menu Diary: Persian-inspired Autumn Supper

I seem to have dropped off the blogging tear in 2011! But I would love to start a diary of menus, to keep track of what I make and serve at different gatherings.

Tonight:

pomegranate-rosewater martinis

cashews with spicy pineapple dust

a big salad of green grapes, walnuts, parsley, pomegranate seeds, persimmon and pistachio-lemon oil 

a big steaming "zereshk polo" made with spaghetti squash instead of basmati rice, topped with pistachios, barberries, carrot strings, saffron, and onions caramelized in butter

roasted cauliflower served with four sauces (tahini-mustard, mint-cilantro, mango-chilli, tamarind)

lamb, salmon and shrimp seared with za'atar, Aleppo pepper, dried lemon
(and, in the case of the lamb, a little pomegranate syrup, too)

saffron panna cotta

Moroccan mint tea

Randy Mayor; Jan Gautro

Thanksgiving 2011

This year (after the usual apple, fig compote, and goat cheese accompaniment for the start-to-the-evening champagne toast, and some herb pesto-stuffed mushroom hors d'oeuvres), we had:

Tuscan kale salad
Miso-glazed cod
French lentils
Apple-leek stuffing and cranberry chutney
Gingered yams and mustard greens
Brussels sprouts by way of Beirut
Apple cake

Marinating the cod was the first thing I did yesterday, since it needs to soak up the marinade for 2-6 hours. I mixed 2/3 cup sake, 2/3 cup mirin, 2/3 cup mild white miso, 3/8 C (packed) brown sugar, and 1/4 C nama shoyu, and turned seven 6-oz cod filets (about 3/4" thick) in that marinade over a few times to coat them. Throughout the course of the afternoon I turned them a few more times. Six minutes before dinner, I broiled the fish six inches from the broiler until just opaque in the center. The top gets nicely caramelized. I garnished each filet with one long chive.

For the lentils, I soaked 2 C French lentils for a while, while I was doing other things, then drained them. I heated about a tablespoon of clarified butter on medium-low heat and sauteed three minced garlic cloves and one finely chopped yellow onion as well as a few fresh bay leaves until the onion was translucent. Then I added the lentils, salt, and pepper, and stirred to coat the lentils with the onion-garlic-butter. Then I added 5 C water, brought the mixture to a boil, and then simmered it about 12-15 minutes. I drained most of the water once the lentils were cooked, since I'd be using the lentils as a bed for the fish filets. I garnished the lentils with some finely chopped fresh chives.

Rosemary-lemon gremolata over broiled wild Alaskan salmon

We had a large filet (perhaps 2 lbs?) of wild Alaskan salmon, and marinated it for about 2 hours in a gremolata of extra virgin olive oil, chopped rosemary, crushed red chilli pepper, sliced garlic, lemon zest, salt and pepper, then roasted it covered with foil in a 350°F oven for about 20 minutes, then removed the foil and let it broil for a few minutes on high.

Fish tikkis and imli chutney, dal with hot lime pickle, and salad

During the week, putting together motley things I had completely or half-prepared on a Sunday:
- a salad made with arugula, cucumbers, and bell peppers, with a cranberry vinaigrette I have in the fridge that I made when the cranberry preserves were almost over and it was easier to get the last bits by swirling them with vinegar and making a dressing;
- moong dal made chunky-style with mustard greens, topped with hot lime pickle; and
- fish tikkis topped with imli chutney.

Light Summer Meals: Salmon Niçoise and Black-Eyed Pea Salad with Chipotle-Honey Dressing

Ah, summer. You don't feel like spending a lot of time in a hot kitchen and you barely feel like eating anything remotely warm. The tomatoes are delicious and everything seems more colorful. So we have been having simple dinners, basically salads topped with fish or shrimp:


Salmon "Niçoise" - Salmon poached in a pandan-galangal-lemon broth, over Satur Farms mache and endive salad dressed in a blood orange-mustard vinaigrette, with a few russet potatoes, steamed baby asparagus (which we had saved frozen from spring), heirloom tomatoes from New Jersey, and crumbled hardboiled egg.



Black-Eyed Pea Salad with Chipotle-Honey Dressing (with grilled shrimp glazed with the same chipotle-honey dressing). The salad has diced radish, diced yellow and red bell peppers, diced red onion, diced fresh bicolor corn, and cilantro. I soaked the black-eyed peas in the morning so they would cook more quickly, and boiled them with salt, two bay leaves, and the two dried chipotle peppers that I then made a salad dressing/glaze with (chipotles, a whole head of fresh baby garlic cloves that I lightly roasted, honey, lime juice, salt, a little bit of olive oil and some brown rice vinegar, blended with a hand blender).

Recipe: Moqueca de Peixe (Bahia Seafood Stew)

Moqueca de Peixe (Bahia Seafood Stew) for 6

• juice of 1 lime
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 pound white fish fillet(s), cut into strips or chunks
• 1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 chopped red onion
• 1 chopped green bell pepper
• 1 chopped red bell pepper
• 1 bunch chopped green onions
• 5 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 large chopped tomatoes
• 1/2 cup minced fresh cilantro
• 2 (8-oz.) bottles clam juice
• 1 (14 1/2-oz.) can low sodium broth
• 1 cup coconut milk
• 1/2 teaspoon ground red chilli pepper

Combine lime, salt and pepper, garlic, fish and shrimp in a large bowl; toss or turn to coat. Marinate in refrigerator 30 minutes.

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or stock pot over medium heat. Add onion, bell peppers, green onions, garlic, and bay leaf; cook 6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Increase heat to medium-high; add tomato, and cook 2 minutes.

Add half the cilantro, clam juice, and broth. Bring to boil; reduce heat, and simmer 10 minutes. Remove bay leaf.

Blend vegetable-and-stock mixture until smooth (I used a hand blender, but you could also transfer the mixture, 1/3 of it at a time, to a blender for pureeing). Add coconut milk and red chilli pepper to pureed vegetable mixture. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; cook 3 minutes.

Add fish-and-shrimp mixture; cook 3 minutes or until seafood is cooked. Sprinkle with the remaining cilantro.

We had this over brown rice, but it could also be served simply as a stew.

Recipe: Mini Cod Cakes with Harissa Ketchup

Mini Cod Cakes with Harissa Ketchup (makes about 36)
1/2 cup mayonnaise or fresh aioli
1 large egg
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard (I used tarragon mustard)
3/4 teaspoon seafood seasoning (I used a mel ocean picked up from a little epicerie in Geneva)
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1 lb cod
2 cups organic breadcrumbs or panko
Harissa ketchup
Optional Garnish: thinly sliced fresh cilantro

Bring 4 quarts water to boil with peppercorns to taste, a roughly chopped onion, a few bay leaves, and a lemon sliced into 4 or 5 pieces. Lower cod in inside a strainer such that you can pull it out free of the other ingredients in the water when it's cooked. Pull it out when cooked and let cool and drain.

Whisk together mayonnaise, egg, mustard, seasoning, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and Tabasco, then use your hands to mash in the cod when it's at room temperature. Add breadcrumbs to the mixture until you can feel that the mixture can be clumped together. (I think I added one or two tablespoons.)

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Put fresh breadcrumbs into a shallow dish. Form 1 heaping teaspoon cod mixture into a 1"-diameter ball, then gently roll in the breadcrumbs to cover and place onto a baking sheet sprayed with grapeseed oil and flatten lightly to form a little cake.

Bake cod cakes in batches in middle of oven until crisp and golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool slightly and transfer to a platter and top each with about 1 teaspoon harissa ketchup. Garnish with cilantro, if you like.

On Valentine's Day, Be Good to Your Heart

I'm still fixated on all things Moroccan, so here's an idea for a heart-healthy Valentine's Day menu that Rick and Ilsa might have enjoyed.

Grilled Fish with Smoky Harissa for 2

1 red chilli
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 5- to 6-ounce firm white fish (such as halibut or mahi-mahi) fillets
1 large red bell pepper, quartered lengthwise, seeded
Olive oil for brushing plus 2 Tablespoons
1 teaspoon ground cumin, divided
1 teaspoon ground coriander, divided
1/2 a lemon

Prepare grill on medium-high heat. Thread chilli and garlic clove onto a skewer. Brush chilli, garlic, fish, and red bell peppers with oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sprinkle fish with 1/2 teaspoon cumin and 1/2 teaspoon coriander. Grill fish, bell peppers, jalapeño, and garlic until vegetables are tender and fish is just cooked through, about 4 minutes per side for fish and 6-8 minutes per side for vegetables. Grill lemon, cut side down, until charred, about 3 minutes. Transfer fish to plate and tent with foil to keep warm.

Peel charred parts of skin from bell pepper and cut stem from jalapeño, and transfer to blender, discarding peel and stem. Add garlic clove, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon coriander to blender. Process until coarse puree forms. Season sauce generously to taste with salt and pepper. (I like to add some soaked walnuts, too, for creaminess.)

Place 1 fish fillet on each of 2 plates. Squeeze grilled lemon over. Spoon sauce over fish.

Serve with a simple salad that should be made one day beforehand (so the wheat softens) of 2 ounces cracked wheat tossed with the juice of 2 lemons, 1 tablespoon olive oil, a tomato (peeled cored, seeded, and diced), a red bell pepper (roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced), two chopped scallions, a small cucumber (peeled, seeded, and diced), a diced celery rib, and add to taste chopped fresh parsley and mint, salt and pepper.

Sefrou abricot/galettes sucrees/mandelbrot (apricot cookies)
4 large eggs
3/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup olive or argan oil
3 cups whole wheat pastry flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped almonds
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup chopped dried apricots
1/2 cup chopped pitted dates
1 tablespoon sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 350° and spray a cookie sheet with grapeseed oil.

Beat 3 eggs with the light brown sugar. Add the oil, flour, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon, then fold in the chopped nuts and fruit.

Turn the dough out onto a floured board. Divide the dough into 2 pieces and form each piece into a roll about 14" long and 1 1/2" - 2" wide. Place the rolls on the cookie sheet, leaving an inch between them.

Beat the remaining egg and brush it over the dough. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Bake for 20 minutes on the middle rack. Let the rolls cool for 5 minutes. Using a serrated knife, slice each roll into 3/4" pieces. Lay the slices cut side up on the cookie sheet and return them to the oven for 15 more minutes, or until the cookies are golden brown. Let cool and serve with Moroccan mint tea.

Recipe: Pomegranate-Date Tagine

I had resolved to make more tagines when we returned from Morocco - they're layered with sweet spices, a lingering tang (not a bright one), and the mouth seems to want to savor bites for longer, encouraging a healthy slowness in eating, lingering and conversation.  I haven't made very many in the last several months, but here's a particularly simple one, that could also be made in a covered baking dish if you don't have a tagine.

Pomegranate-Date Tagine for 2

olive oil
1 lb to 1.5 lbs wild coho salmon
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp minced ginger
1 preserved lemon
2 cinnamon sticks
1 Tbsp coriander seeds
1 Cup pomegranate juice
1/4 C chopped dates
1 tsp salt

Generously salt and pepper the fish. Heat a tagine over medium heat until
very hot. Lower oven rack to lower middle position and preheat to 275°F.

Add the onions, minced ginger and preserved lemon to the pan and saute for
about 20 minutes. Add the cinnamon sticks and coriander seeds and caramelize
the onions (another 10 minutes). Add the fish to the pot, the pomegranate
juice, and the dates. Bring to a boil and salt to taste.

Cover and place in the oven. Braise for 30 minutes or until the fish
flakes.

We had this with pistachio couscous (simply, couscous for 2 with
about 1/3 Cup shelled and coarsely chopped pistachios stirred into it while
hot; also added a dash of lemon juice).

Recipe: Sweet and Spicy Trout with Yellow Bell Pepper Dice and Brussels Sprouts

The other day, we had some left over brown rice, some fresh trout filets, a few bell peppers, and some brussels sprouts in the fridge, hence this Chinese-influenced, sweet-and-spicy meal-in-a-bowl. 

Sweet and Spicy Trout with Yellow Bell Pepper Dice and Brussels Sprouts for 2

1/2 Cup cooked brown rice, flecked with black sesame seeds

About 20 brussels sprouts, chopped (I cut each into eighths, lengthwise)

1 yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced

two 1/4 pound trout filets

1" piece ginger, peeled and minced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 Tbsp. nama shoyu

2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar

1 tsp. brown sugar

2 Tbsp. black bean sauce

4 Tbsp. Peanut oil

Dash hot chilli sesame oil

For the brussels sprouts:

In a wok, heat 2 Tbsp. peanut oil over medium high heat.  Add half the ginger and half the garlic and saute until fragrant but do not let the ginger or garlic brown.  

Add the brussels sprouts, half the shoyu, half the rice wine vinegar, and the brown sugar, and toss.  

Continue sauteeing until the brussels sprouts are cooked and the liquids are completely reduced, about 10 minutes.

Simultaneously, for the fish and bell peppers: 

In a pan, heat the other 2 Tbsp. peanut oil over medium high heat. Add the yellow bell peppers and saute until they soften.  

Add the remaining ginger, garlic, shoyu, and rice wine vinegar, and the black bean sauce, and cook, stirring, until the mixture begins to caramelize and the liquid has reduced by about half.

Place the fish filets atop the bell peppers, dash a bit of sesame chilli oil onto them, lower the heat to medium, and cover to let the filets steam cook atop the bell peppers. (Mine took about 5 minutes, then I removed the fish skin.)

Put half of the brown rice into each of two bowls, top the rice with the sauteed brussels sprouts, top the brussels sprouts with a fish filet, and top each fish filet with the caramelized, diced bell peppers.

Recipe: Tuna Steak with Japanese Vegetables

I have recently been reading about Harumi Kurihara, the "Martha Stewart of Japan." She makes a dish of bite-sized steak with chopped vegetables that is just as do-able with tuna steak (not very unlike the trout with diced, caramelized yellow bell pepper and shredded brussels sprouts that I made the other day, if I do say so myself -- I'll post that recipe next).


Fish-and-vegetables are the basic ingredients of many of the meals I make. They make a light, nourishing meal, with endless possibilities for variation.

Tuna Bites with Japanese Vegetables for 4
About 2 lbs tuna steaks (3/4" thick if possible)
Olive or peanut oil for cooking
2 tablespoons finely chopped ginger
¼ Cup finely chopped watercress
¼ Cup scallions, chopped
¼ cup ribbed and finely chopped celery
Small handful shredded shiso leaves (or a mix of fresh basil and mint leaves, shredded)
Dashi shoyu sauce, to taste (a half-and-half mixture of fish stock and soy sauce)
Grated daikon or radish


Cut the tuna steaks into bite-sizes pieces. Heat the oil in a ridged griddle pan or frying pan and quickly cook the cubes, browning on all sides. (I added a bit of hot chilli sesame oil for the sesame flavor and the heat.)


Mix the chopped vegetables, except the daikon/radish, together. When the tuna is cooked to your liking, place it on a serving dish with the chopped vegetables on top. Make the dashi shoyu sauce and pour it on. Top each serving with grated daikon/radish.

Recipe: Seared Tuna with Ginger-Garlic Dipping Sauce

Today we had left over Vietnamese-style cabbage salad, which was not going to be enough. So this seared tuna provided a quick fix.

Seared Tuna with Ginger-Garlic Dipping Sauce (for 1)

0.5 lbs sashimi-grade tuna
peanut oil
sesame oil
lemon juice
nam pla
minced ginger
minced garlic
minced cilantro
nama shoyu
red chilli pepper
chilli oil

For the dipping sauce, I mixed no more than 1 tsp. each (possibly less) of sesame oil, lemon juice, nam pla, ginger, garlic, and cilantro with a dash of red chilli pepper and poured it onto a plate in a circle.

I heated some peanut oil on a pan, patted the tuna dry, and seared it over high heat. Then I sliced the tuna and placed the slices on top of the dipping sauce on the plate, and put a drop each of chilli oil and nama shoyu onto each piece.