Menu Diary: Persian-inspired Autumn Supper

I seem to have dropped off the blogging tear in 2011! But I would love to start a diary of menus, to keep track of what I make and serve at different gatherings.

Tonight:

pomegranate-rosewater martinis

cashews with spicy pineapple dust

a big salad of green grapes, walnuts, parsley, pomegranate seeds, persimmon and pistachio-lemon oil 

a big steaming "zereshk polo" made with spaghetti squash instead of basmati rice, topped with pistachios, barberries, carrot strings, saffron, and onions caramelized in butter

roasted cauliflower served with four sauces (tahini-mustard, mint-cilantro, mango-chilli, tamarind)

lamb, salmon and shrimp seared with za'atar, Aleppo pepper, dried lemon
(and, in the case of the lamb, a little pomegranate syrup, too)

saffron panna cotta

Moroccan mint tea

Randy Mayor; Jan Gautro

Light Apple Cake

I saw a recipe for baked apple cider doughnuts on thekitchn when I was trawling the web for dessert ideas for Thanksgiving. I made one cake with it instead of eight doughnuts, and garnished it with some persimmon rings. We had it with spiked mulled apple cider.

Sweet corn gelato

It went fast.

Pear, Walnut and Raisin Cake

YIELD - One 8 inch cake

Ingredients:

1 cup (2 sticks) (200g) butter softened

1 cup (200g) granulated raw cane sugar

1 1/2 (200g) cups whole wheat pastry flour

1 tsp baking powder

1/3 cup raisins

3 eggs

1 lb pears (450g) – peeled, cored and sliced.

1 Tbsp raw sugar or granulated sugar (for sprinkling)

1/3 cup (50g) walnuts, chopped

Glaze:

2 1/2 Tbsp butter

2 Tbsp brown sugar

1 1/2 Tbsp rum



Procedure

* Preheat the oven to 180C/350F and grease an 8 inch round pan or springform.

* Measure raisins in 1/3 cup and fill raisins to the top. Next, add enough rum to fill the measuring cup. Set aside and allow to soak.

* Sift the flour, baking powder and set aside.

* In mixing bowl, beat the sugar and butter together. Add the eggs, one at a time.

* Reduce the mixer speed and add the flour mixture or fold it in by hand.

* Spoon this mixture into a prepared cake pan and place the pear slices on top of the cake.

* Sprinkle with the 1 Tbsp of sugar, dot with the remaining butter and scatter the walnuts and the rum raisins on the pears.

* Melt glaze ingredients and drizzle over pear and walnuts.

* Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Let cool.

Superfood Indulgence: Dark Chocolate-Ginger-Walnut-Cherry "Bark"

Dark-Chocolate Bark with Ginger, Walnuts and Dried Cherries (or Cranberries)

This antioxidant rich indulgence packs omega-3s, vitamin C, and fiber derived from whole foods into one small, delicious (vegan!) package.

1 1/2 cups walnut halves (6 ounces)
9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup dried sour cherries or cranberries (4 ounces), coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast walnuts on a baking sheet for 8 minutes, until golden and fragrant. Let cool, then coarsely chop.

Line a baking sheet with parchment / wax paper. In a glass bowl, heat two-thirds of the chocolate in a microwave oven at high power in 30-second bursts until just melted. Stir until smooth. Add remaining chocolate and stir until melted. Stir in the walnuts, cherries and crystallized ginger until evenly coated.

Scrape the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and spread it into a 12-by-8-" rectangle. Refrigerate for 10 minutes, or until firm enough to cut. Cut into 48 pieces (6 x 8) and transfer to a plate. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Astonishingly simple chocolate mousse recipe

Courtesy of unwilling guest blogger Mr Bee:

Purchase ~200g of bittersweet chocolate (Callebaut ~70% cacao works for me — the better the chocolate, the better the mousse) and six eggs. Mr Bee is Aussie and so talks in metric equivalents; I think I used 0.48 lb chocolate or something like that.

- Beat egg whites in a bowl until firm
- Melt chocolate on low heat and mix into bowl with egg yolks (use bowl that you want to serve mousse in as this will be final bowl)
- Then fold the beaten egg whites into the chocolate/yolk mixture using a wooden spoon (make sure it is wood)
- Put in fridge for 4-5 hours
- Optional: add a little fruit or sea salt, or even sesame seeds to give it a “sexy edge” (Mr Bee’s words)

Mulled Apple Cider Granita

yield: Makes about 1 1/4 quarts

6 cups unpasteurized apple cider
a 3-inch cinnamon stick and/or mulling spices
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons strained fresh lemon juice

In a large saucepan combine the cider, the cinnamon stick (I used a mixture of cinnamon sticks, allspice, orange zest, and cloves), the sugar, and a pinch of salt and boil the mixture for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to about 4 cups. Stir in the lemon juice, strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl, and chill it, covered, until it is cold. Freeze the mixture in an ice-cream freezer according to the manufacturer's instructions if you want to make sorbet, or freeze and scrape with a fork for granita.

Recipe: Quick Cinnamon-Chocolate Mousse (vegan!)

We had some friends over for watercress and radish salad (dressed with verjus and extra virgin olive oil and topped with sliced boiled egg), fish tacos, and Mexican corn.  I made this quick (and vegan!) cinnamon-chocolate mousse the day before so we'd have a little chocolatey bite for afterwards!

Quick Cinnamon-Chocolate Mousse for 4

1 ¼ cups chilled MimicCreme
1/8 teaspoon (generous) ground cinnamon
4 ounces bittersweet dark chocolate (at least 65% cocoa content), chopped

Combine ¼ cup MimicCreme and cinnamon in small saucepan; bring to boil. Remove from heat. Add chocolate and whisk until melted and smooth. Transfer chocolate mixture to large bowl and add remaining MimicCreme. Using electric mixer, beat until chocolate is completely incorporated. Divide mousse among 4 glasses / bowls / ramekins and cover with plastic wrap. Chill until set, about 4 hours. (Can be made 1 day ahead.)

Recipe: Passionfruit Yogurt Mousse

Passionfruit Yogurt Mousse (for 12-20 depending on serving size)
3 tablespoons agar powder
6 cups passionfruit purée (I used a mix of 2 cups passionfruit puree and 4 cups mango puree)
1/2 cup brown sugar
3 cups plain yogurt
3 cups well-chilled heavy cream

pulp from 4 fresh passionfruits

In a small saucepan sprinkle the agar powder over 3/4 cup cold water, let it soften for 1 minute, and heat the mixture over low heat, stirring, until dissolved. In a blender blend together the purée, the sugar, and add the gelatin mixture, and blend the mixture well. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the yogurt. In a chilled bowl beat the cream until it holds stiff peaks, fold it into the passionfruit mixture gently but thoroughly, and divide the mousse among 12-20 dessert glasses. Chill the mousses for at least 4 hours or overnight. Garnish the mousses with a
small spoonful of fresh passionfruit.

(You could probably substitute 2 whipped, pasteurized egg whites for 1 cup of the cream for a lower in fat, higher in protein, airier version.)

On Valentine's Day, Be Good to Your Heart

I'm still fixated on all things Moroccan, so here's an idea for a heart-healthy Valentine's Day menu that Rick and Ilsa might have enjoyed.

Grilled Fish with Smoky Harissa for 2

1 red chilli
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 5- to 6-ounce firm white fish (such as halibut or mahi-mahi) fillets
1 large red bell pepper, quartered lengthwise, seeded
Olive oil for brushing plus 2 Tablespoons
1 teaspoon ground cumin, divided
1 teaspoon ground coriander, divided
1/2 a lemon

Prepare grill on medium-high heat. Thread chilli and garlic clove onto a skewer. Brush chilli, garlic, fish, and red bell peppers with oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sprinkle fish with 1/2 teaspoon cumin and 1/2 teaspoon coriander. Grill fish, bell peppers, jalapeño, and garlic until vegetables are tender and fish is just cooked through, about 4 minutes per side for fish and 6-8 minutes per side for vegetables. Grill lemon, cut side down, until charred, about 3 minutes. Transfer fish to plate and tent with foil to keep warm.

Peel charred parts of skin from bell pepper and cut stem from jalapeño, and transfer to blender, discarding peel and stem. Add garlic clove, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon coriander to blender. Process until coarse puree forms. Season sauce generously to taste with salt and pepper. (I like to add some soaked walnuts, too, for creaminess.)

Place 1 fish fillet on each of 2 plates. Squeeze grilled lemon over. Spoon sauce over fish.

Serve with a simple salad that should be made one day beforehand (so the wheat softens) of 2 ounces cracked wheat tossed with the juice of 2 lemons, 1 tablespoon olive oil, a tomato (peeled cored, seeded, and diced), a red bell pepper (roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced), two chopped scallions, a small cucumber (peeled, seeded, and diced), a diced celery rib, and add to taste chopped fresh parsley and mint, salt and pepper.

Sefrou abricot/galettes sucrees/mandelbrot (apricot cookies)
4 large eggs
3/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup olive or argan oil
3 cups whole wheat pastry flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped almonds
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup chopped dried apricots
1/2 cup chopped pitted dates
1 tablespoon sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 350° and spray a cookie sheet with grapeseed oil.

Beat 3 eggs with the light brown sugar. Add the oil, flour, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon, then fold in the chopped nuts and fruit.

Turn the dough out onto a floured board. Divide the dough into 2 pieces and form each piece into a roll about 14" long and 1 1/2" - 2" wide. Place the rolls on the cookie sheet, leaving an inch between them.

Beat the remaining egg and brush it over the dough. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Bake for 20 minutes on the middle rack. Let the rolls cool for 5 minutes. Using a serrated knife, slice each roll into 3/4" pieces. Lay the slices cut side up on the cookie sheet and return them to the oven for 15 more minutes, or until the cookies are golden brown. Let cool and serve with Moroccan mint tea.

Recipe: Gingerbread (Cake)

Gingerbread (Cake)

Oil spray (I have grapeseed)
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/2 cup dark molasses
1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce (I used apple-apricot sauce)
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large egg
1 cup whole wheat flour or other whole grain flour

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1/4 cup ground almonds / almond flour
1/4 cup (packed) brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup boiling water

Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray baking pans (I used 4 mini-loaf pans, one regular size loaf pan, and a mini cake pan; I think it's a total of 12 Cups capacity) with oil spray. Whisk maple syrup, molasses, applesauce, oil and egg in large bowl to blend. Add the flours, ground ginger, and sugar and stir until well blended. Add the baking soda and salt and stir again. Whisk in 1/2 cup boiling water.

Pour the batter halfway up the sides of the baking pans.

Bake until the gingerbread begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 35 minutes.

Transfer to rack and cool in pans, 30 minutes.

Invert onto platter(s) and cool at least 15 minutes.

Recipe: Gajar ka Halwa (Indian Carrot Pudding)

Tomorrow is Diwali, so on Sunday we gathered together with about 5 or 6 other families and, as most communities do during holiday celebrations, made and ate lots of treats.

Carrot seera or gajar ka halwa is an Indian sweet dish usually made with clarified butter, milk, and lots of white sugar. I love it, but wanted to make a less sweet, non-dairy version that let more of the natural carrot flavor come through. After all, why start with the brilliant idea of taking the antioxidant powerhouse carrot, which has pretty sweet juice to begin with, turn it into a glorious deep orange pudding even the most vegetable-resistant kid will ask for second helpings of, but then heap it with harmful fats and white sugar? So here's a version I successfully made yesterday, with no dairy and no white sugar. The almond milk and almond butter also add to the flavor profile.

Gajar ka Halwa (for 12)

18 big juicy organic carrots, trimmed, peeled, washed, and grated

Grapeseed (or other mild-tasting and good-for-you) oil spray

4 tablespoons almond butter

Several pinches saffron

1/4 Cup cardamom pods, pounded using a mortar and pestle until the black seeds are exposed

9 whole cloves

4 Cups almond milk (unsweetened)

1.5 Cups brown sugar (taste test to decide whether to use more or less, depending on how sweet the carrots naturally are already and the sweetness you prefer)

Optional: add golden raisins at the same time that you add the brown sugar

Garnish: slivered almonds

Spray the bottom and halfway up the sides of a big, heavy-bottomed soup pot with the grapeseed oil spray. Turn the stove on to medium heat and briefly fry the saffron until its color begins seeping into the oil. Add the almond butter and let it warm for a few seconds. Add the carrots, pounded cardamom pods, and cloves, and fold and stir until all the carrots are coated with almond butter and the fragrant spices. Add the almond milk and the brown sugar and stir until mixed thoroughly. Let the mixture simmer on medium heat, half uncovered, stirring every now and then, until the milk is reduced and the mixture is so thick that no liquid drips off a spoonful. Serve hot or at room temperature garnished with slivered almonds.

It took me about 2 hours to make it yesterday, but the nice thing is you don't have to do anything during this simmering phase except for check on it and stir it every now and then, so yesterday, I let the carrot seera simmer while I made other dishes. And if you divide this recipe by thirds, as it would make sense to do if you're just making it for a group of four or so, it will be done much more quickly.

Ideas for Using Liquid Whey

Finishing up this mini-series on homemade dairy products, here are some ideas for what to do with the liquid whey you reserve when making paneer (the curds or solids from milk).

Powdered whey protein is sold in many health foods and GNC-type stores. It has a long shelf-life and can be added to smoothies, baked goods, almost anything. But liquid whey should be used within a day or two (or frozen immediately for later use). It's very thin and watery, very high in protein, and extremely low in fat (and has zero saturated fat).

My favorite thing to do with whey is to make whey curry.

To make whey curry, see what vegetables you have on hand. Almost anything will do, but green beans and carrots are my favorites for whey curry.

Prep the veggies (e.g., wash, trim and diagonally slice green beans and peel, wash, and julienne or diagonally slice carrots). In a soup pot, pop a couple of tablespoons of black mustard seeds in a couple of tablespoons of hot olive oil. Add a few curry leaves and stir-fry until they're soaked through with oil. Add a tablespoon of either sambar powder or rasam powder.* Stir-fry until fragrant. Add the veggies, salt to taste, and, if you like, some julienned fresh ginger. Also optional: add a few tablespoons of either tomato paste or tamarind pulp and stir. When the vegetables are coated with the other ingredients, add the whey and stir. Salt to taste. Allow this soup to come to a boil and then simmer until the vegetables are tender or al dente, as you prefer. Garnish with chopped fresh cilantro and serve over hot rice.

*Sambar powder is a mixture of about 1 cup chana dal, 3/4 cup coriander seeds, 10 large dried red chillies, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1/4 teaspoon fenugreek, and a pinch of asafoetida, which have been fried together in a teaspoon of oil on low heat and then ground into a fine powder. Rasam powder is a powdered mixture of about 1 cup coriander seeds, 1/2 cup cumin seeds, and 1/2 cup whole black peppercorns. Recipes vary locally. You can buy sambar powder and rasam powder in Indian grocery stores.

You could also make a thin tomato soup with whey: combine 1 1/2 cup strained tomato juice from fresh tomatoes with 2 whole cloves in a soup pot and bring them to a boil, then simmer 5 minutes. The add 1 1/2 cup whey, stir, and strain the mixture. Return the strained mixture to the pot and add a dash of pepper and a 1/4 teaspoon of celery salt. Reheat. Garnish with 1 tablespoon plain yogurt, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, and sprinkle some paprika over the yogurt garnish.

You can also use whey in baked goods: here's a Devil's Food Cake recipe featuring whey.

2 cups packed brown sugar

1/2 cup butter

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour

1/3 cup baking cocoa

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup whey

In a large mixing bowl, combine brown sugar, butter and eggs. Add vanilla; beat well. Sift together flour, cocoa, baking powder, soda and salt in a separate bowl. Add alternately with whey to the egg mixture. Pour batter into two greased 9" round cake pans. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes or until cake tests done. Cool 5 minutes before removing to a wire rack. Continue to cool.

Recipe: Almond Apricot Buckle

Almond Apricot Buckle for 4

Vegetable oil spray (I used grapeseed oil spray)

1/4 cup ground almonds/almond meal/almond flour

3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/8 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1/4 Cup raw turbinado sugar

1/4 Cup dark brown sugar

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

1 pound apricots, halved, pitted (I think a number of fruits would go well with this - plums, apricots, peaches, pears, apples...)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray cake pan with nonstick spray. (I used mini tart pans and very lightly sprayed them. Bon Appetit* recommends lining the bottom of the cake pan, if you're using that, with a parchment paper round.)

Mix ground almonds, flour, baking powder, and salt.

Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until fluffy. Add sugars; beat until well blended. Add egg, beating well. Beat in vanilla and almond extracts, then flour mixture until just incorporated. Transfer batter to prepared pan or mini tart pans; spread evenly. Gently press apricot halves, flesh side down, into batter (1 apricot half per mini tart pan if you're making mini buckles).

Bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean (about 50 minutes in one cake pan; the mini tarts took about 20 minutes, I think). Cool on rack. Remove from pan (or pans) when cool.

*Adapted from almond-plum buckle recipe in Bon Appetit, July 2006.

Recipe: Lemon Almond Buttermilk Loaf

Lemon Almond Buttermilk Loaf for 3 to 4

3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1/6 teaspoon salt

1/6 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup raw turbinado sugar
1/4 cup (2/3 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 large egg
1/12 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup ground almonds/almond meal/almond flour
1 teaspoon lemon zest*
2 2/3 tbsp. agave syrup
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour loaf pan. (I used three mini loaf pans.) Sift flour, salt and baking soda into medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat 2/3 cup sugar and butter in large bowl until well blended. Add egg, beating well. Mix in almond extract. Add dry ingredients and buttermilk to egg mixture, beating until well blended after each addition. Add ground almonds and lemon peel and beat 1 minute. Transfer batter to prepared pan (or pans, if you're using mini loaf pans). Bake cake until deep golden brown and cracked on top and tester inserted into center comes out clean (should be about 1 hour 25 minutes in a regular loaf pan; my mini-loaves took less than 40 minutes, I think). Cool cake in pan on rack.

Stir agave syrup and 2 tablespoons lemon juice in small bowl until dissolved together. Turn loaves out and right side up. Using skewer or toothpick, poke holes all over cake. Brush top and sides of cake with lemon glaze, allowing it to soak into the cake. Cool completely.

*I have to make a shout-out here: zesting citrus used to take me forever. This zesting tool has changed my life, and now I find myself routinely adding citrus zest to vinaigrettes, frozen goodies, veggies, seafood - pretty much anything I'm putting citrus juice into. Because the flavor imparted by zest comes from the oil in the citrus peel, it does not evaporate (that's why so many baking recipes call for zest). And the zesting tool does not peel away too much, so you don't get any of the bitter white pith.


Adapted from lemon-almond buttermilk loaf with balsamic strawberries recipe in Bon Appetit, April 1999.

Recipe: Raspberry Yogurt Cake

Raspberry Yogurt Cake for 3 to 4

2/3 cup whole wheat pastry flour (keep 1/6 cup aside)

1/3 cup ground almonds/almond meal/almond flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

pinch salt

1/3 cup (2/3 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1/2 cup raw turbinado sugar

2 teaspoons fresh orange juice

2/3 teaspoon almond extract

1/3 teaspoon finely grated orange zest*

1 large egg

1/3 cup plain yogurt

1 cup fresh raspberries (or any berries)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter cake pan. (I used a silicone mini muffin pan, which needs no butter.) Whisk flours (leaving 1/6 Cup aside), baking powder, and salt in medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until creamy. Beat in orange juice, almond extract, and orange peel. Add egg and beat. Mix in yogurt. Add dry ingredients to batter and beat until just incorporated. Toss 1/6 cup flour and raspberries in large bowl. Fold berry mixture into batter. Spoon batter into prepared pan (or mini muffin pan); smooth top. Bake cake until wooden skewer inserted near center comes out clean (about 1 hour 10 minutes in a regular cake pan; my mini muffins took 20 minutes or so, I think). Cool. Invert.

*I have to make a shout-out here: zesting citrus used to take me forever. This zesting tool has changed my life, and now I find myself routinely adding citrus zest to vinaigrettes, frozen goodies, veggies, seafood - pretty much anything I'm putting citrus juice into. Because the flavor imparted by zest comes from the oil in the citrus peel, it does not evaporate (that's why so many baking recipes call for zest). And the zesting tool does not peel away too much, so you don't get any of the bitter white pith.

Adapted from raspberry yogurt cake recipe in Bon Appetit, July 2008.

Recipe: Matcha Yogurt Panna Cotta

I'm having a tea party for two with a close friend and am remembering the tea jellies I had when I visited Japan several years ago. I tried recreating one to serve at my little tea party and came up with this take on yogurt panna cotta, which is not so much jelly-like as custard-y. (I think it will go over better; I think I'm somewhat unusual in enjoying the creamy jellies you get in Asia.) I'm still experimenting with a milky black tea jelly. I'll keep you posted.

Because it's vegetarian, I use agar (which growing up was known to me as "china grass") instead of gelatin. Agar (also called "agar agar") is a flavorless seaweed that gels and melts at slightly higher temperatures than gelatin. Just like gelatin, you have to soak it, dissolve it in a hot liquid (up to boiling), and then cool. Acid and the enzymes in tropical fruits like papaya and pineapple break agar down, so use more agar if you're making a citrus or other acidic jelly, and cook tropical fruits and juices before mixing them with agar. You can substitute one teaspoon of agar powder for a teaspoon of powdered gelatin, or 1 1/2 tablespoons of agar flakes.

Matcha Yogurt Panna Cotta for 4

2 Tbsp. water

2 tablespoons agar flakes (or 1 1/4 teaspoons powdered agar)

1/2 cup whipping cream

2-4 tbsp. sweet matcha* (depending on how sweet you like it)

1 cup plain yogurt (use a mild yogurt, without too much of a tang)

Pour water into small bowl and sprinkle the agar flakes into it. Let soak 10 minutes.

Bring cream and sweet matcha to simmer in a heavy medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sweet matcha dissolves. Add agar mixture and whisk until dissolved. Remove from heat. Whisk in yogurt.

Divide mixture among ramekins. Cover and chill overnight.

Optional (if you don't want to serve in the ramekins): Slip a knife around the edges of each panna cotta to loosen. Set each ramekin in a shallow bowl of hot water for 10 seconds. Immediately invert onto a plate.

*You could also just use unsweetened matcha and add your choice of sweetener to taste.

P.S. I have to make a plug for the cute custard spoons I picked up in Japan from Muji. Everywhere I went, these were given to me to use when I was served yogurt or custard, and the family we stayed with also used these, so finally I had to get them, too. Looks like they now have something similar at Sur La Table.